Pearls: The Ultimate Expert Guide to Their Beauty, Meaning, Origins and Value

Introduction

Why Pearls Are Unlike Other Gems

Of all the gemstones in the world, pearls stand apart. Created not in the Earth’s crust but in its oceans, they are the only gem born of a living creature. Romantic, ancient, and naturally sustainable, pearls have captivated cultures for millennia. Yet few truly understand their origin, symbolism, or value.  This is everything you need to know about pearls in one comprehensive, expert guide.

In this guide:

A Personal Experience with Ethical Pearl Farming

As a gemmologist and ethical jeweller, I’ve long championed responsibly sourced materials. But it wasn’t until I visited a working marine pearl farm in Ago Bay, Japan—the birthplace of cultured akoya pearls—that I fully grasped the quiet craftsmanship and care behind each sustainably grown gem.

The Meaning of Pearls and Their Birth Month

Pearls carry deep meaning as well as beauty. As the official June birthstone, they symbolise status, purity, wisdom, and transformation. Today, they’re also seen as emblems of self-reflection, resilience, and new beginnings—making them the perfect gift for birthdays, weddings, and life’s turning points.

What You’ll Learn in This Guide

In this expert guide, you’ll discover everything you need to know about pearls: their mythology, formation, farming, and value; how to choose and care for them; and why marine pearls are far superior to mass-produced freshwater alternatives. If you’re looking for meaning, elegance, and ethics in one gem—this is it.

Beachcomber Akoya pearl stud and charm drop, worn with earrings and charms from our collection

 

1. What Do Pearls Mean – and Why?

 

The Symbolism and Cultural Power of Pearls Through History

Pearls have always been more than beautiful—they’ve carried layers of meaning, mystery, and status across civilisations.

Power and Political Leverage in Ancient Rome

As far back as 46 BCE, Julius Caesar passed laws reserving pearls for Roman nobility, making them the ultimate status symbol. He famously gave a rare and valuable pearl to his lover Servilia, the mother of Brutus, act of both affection and political manoeuvring. Lesser ranking women had to relinquish theirs.

Divine Tears in Ancient Greece to Tears of Love for Victorians

In Ancient Greece, pearls were believed to be the tears of the gods—sacred drops of divine emotion. Brides wore them as symbols of purity and harmony, hoping to bring fortune and fidelity to their marriages. This poetic association lingered for centuries, echoed in Renaissance literature and Elizabethan court fashion. In Victorian England, pearls were also worn by grieving widows as visual “tears” of loyalty and remembrance.

Wisdom and Immortality in Ancient China

Chinese warriors during the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE) wore pearls into battle as protective charms. They were also placed in the mouths of the dead to safeguard the soul’s journey after death—symbols of wisdom, protection, and spiritual continuity. Pearls weren’t just prized for beauty; they were imbued with deep cosmological significance.  In Buddhist and broader East Asian lore, the Dragon pursuing the flaming pearl—or cintāmaṇi—is an allegory for the soul’s quest for spiritual wisdom, with the fiery gem often representing enlightenment, truth, and the cosmic mind.

 

"Girl with a Pearl Earring" by Johannes Vermeer, 1665

 

Purity and Feminine Virtue for the Elite

Queen Elizabeth I cultivated her image as the “Virgin Queen” with pearl-encrusted gowns and portraits, reinforcing their symbolism of chastity and divine right. During her reign, (1530s–1600s), demand for pearls surged—and their link with feminine power and purity became firmly established.  In the celebrated painting 'The Girl with the Pearl Earring' of 1661, Vermeer celebrates beauty, femininity, exoticism and status all embodied by one glistening pearl. 

Feminine Symbolism in Bridal Jewellery

Pearls, being found in the flesh of clams, also held associations with femininity, fertility, and childbirth: traditionally brides wear pearls to bless their unions.  Today, pearl jewellery still carries that quiet strength and timeless beauty and is a romantic, popular choice of bridal jewellery styled with a white wedding dress. 

 

 

Margaret of Austria, Queen of Spain, wearing La Peregrina as a pendant below an enormous diamond (c. 1606). The Royal Collection of HM King Charles III. Image: public domain.

 

2. Famous Pearls, Crowns, Queens and C20th Style Icons

More than beautiful, famous pearls are cultural icons found in celebrity pearl jewellery, royal collections, and historic heirlooms that still inspire today.

La Peregrina & Elizabeth Taylor

“I had just received La Peregrina from New York on a delicate little chain and I was wearing it like a talisman.” – Elizabeth Taylor

One of the most famous natural pearls in the world, La Peregrina was discovered off the coast of Panama in the 16th century. Aptly named, La Peregrina means the Pilgrimess, it passed through Spanish royalty and eventually landed in the hands of Elizabeth Taylor, who had it set in a custom Cartier necklace. Its natural formation, extraordinary size (17.5mm by 25.5mm), symmetry, and provenance made it legendary. When it was auctioned at Christie’s New York in 2011, it sold for $11.8 million—cementing its place among the most valuable natural pearls at auction.

Marie Antoinette’s Historic Pendant

After more than two centuries out of sight, Marie Antoinette’s exquisite natural pearl and diamond pendant reappeared in 2018. Once smuggled out of France during the Revolution through her daughter’s lineage, it was offered at Sotheby’s Geneva. From an estimate of just $1–2 million, it soared to over $36 million—an extraordinary result that speaks to the enduring value of historic pearl jewellery with royal provenance.

Pearls in the Honours of Scotland

Scotland’s Crown, Sword, and Sceptre—known collectively as the Honours of Scotland—are adorned with rare natural freshwater river pearls, many of which were harvested from Scottish rivers centuries ago. The crown alone contains 68 small freshwater pearls, while the sceptre features another set in its finial. These homegrown pearls represent a lost tradition of native pearl fishing and a deep-rooted connection between Scotland’s natural resources and its royal symbolism.

Pearly Queens: Catherine de’ Medici, Mary Queen of Scots and Elizabeth I

When Mary, Queen of Scots married the Dauphin of France in 1558, her formidable mother-in-law Catherine de’ Medici is believed to have gifted her a rope of "black" dark-toned pearls.  These were possibly some of the lavish gifts originally given by her uncle Pope Clement VII on her wedding, which included six strands of enormous black natural pearls and twenty-five pear shaped drop natural pearls.

Mary Queen of Scots is painted in a lavish red court dress embroidered all over with pearls, wearing a huge rope of black pearls knotted at her neck in a portrait held in the V&A's collection.  Mary's passion for pearls was well documented: in 1562 she purchased 264 large pearls from Edinburgh goldsmiths, and French records show dozens more strung into sapphire collars and hairpieces.

After her imprisonment and eventual execution in 1587, many of her pearls were acquired by Elizabeth I, including six cords of 25 large pearls, described by diplomats as being the size of "nutmegs" and “incomparable.”  The British Royal Collection Trust states that four of these pearls may be those mounted under the arches of the British Imperial State Crown today.  Whether as heirlooms or political trophies, these pearls wove a powerful story of female monarchy, rivalry, and regal symbolism across European courts.

King Charles I’s Tear-Shaped Pearl

King Charles I was famously painted wearing a single pearl earring in his left ear—a jewel he wore throughout his adult life and into death. He was executed in 1649, still wearing the earring, which now resides in the Portland Collection at the Harley Museum, Worksop.  The tear-shaped pearl may have symbolised both majesty and martyrdom, an intensely personal emblem of sovereignty and sacrifice.

Why Famous Natural Pearls Still Matter

These famous natural pearls share more than beauty—they embody rarity, provenance, and emotional depth. Formed entirely in the wild, they are now exceptionally rare. Whether part of royal collections, celebrity pearl jewellery, or natural pearls in crown jewels, they are not just treasures of adornment—they are artefacts of power, poetry, and memory.

Twentieth Century Style Icons

“The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens” said Grace Kelly. 1955, image public domain.

Grace Kelly is the ultimate icon of timeless elegance with a style defined by clean lines, refined silhouettes, and understated luxury. One of her most iconic accessories was a single strand of pearls worn as a choker, resting high on her neck — a look that became a signature of her regal poise. The simplicity of the pearls highlighted her natural grace and impeccable taste, both on-screen and as Princess of Monaco. Her affinity for classic pearl jewellery helped cement their status as a symbol of sophistication and enduring style.

Queen Elizabeth II cherished her pearls. From her coronation in 1953, she wore pearls given by her father, King George VI, including a triple-strand necklace she adored. She later received two more iconic sets—one from the Emir of Qatar in 1953, and another from the Japanese government in the 1970s, crafted from cultured marine pearls and mounted by Garrard. Throughout her reign, the Queen wore these pearls daily—at state occasions, funerals, and even televised addresses—not only as jewellery, but as emblems of continuity, diplomacy, and royal tradition.

Audrey Hepburn also cemented the pearl’s place in 20th-century iconography. In the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), she wears a striking rope of pearls paired with a black Givenchy gown—an image so powerful it remains one of the most enduring in fashion history. That layered pearl necklace became a symbol of elegance, simplicity, and effortless charm.

 

Ropes of faux pearls in a Chanel advertisement

Coco Chanel’s Modern Revolution in Pearls

Few women did more to modernise the pearl than Coco Chanel (1883–1971). Known for layering ropes of pearls—both real and faux—Chanel made pearls feel fresh, confident, and unfussy. 

Chanel rejected the idea that jewellery must be formal or reserved for evening. Instead, she paired pearls with black jersey, crisp white blouses, and even menswear-inspired tailoring—breaking class conventions and ushering pearls into the wardrobe of the modern woman. Her legacy lives on in every strand worn with effortless elegance today.

“A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls.” Coco Chanel

What unites all these pearls is rarity, elegance, and romance.  Most are natural pearls, naturally formed in the wild—making them incredibly scarce today.  But not all pearls are created equal.  Read on to find out more.

 

 

Pinctata Fucata Martensii - Akoya pearls

 

3: Where Pearls Come From and How They Are Formed 

Pearls grow mostly in oysters and mussels, but other molluscs can also grow pearls jump to our Pearl Comparison Guide.

Natural Pearl Growth - (no grains of sand involved!)

In nature pearls grow by luck or accident when an irritant, such as a parasite or tiny predator, gets into a mollusc and picks up - or wounds and dislodges - some of the mollusc's mantle tissue cells.  

So, triggered by the dislocation of some of its loose epithelial mantle cells into its anatomy, a mollusc will automatically form a pearl, layer by shimmering layer.   The outer epithelial cells of its mantle, its outer fleshy part, are what gives molluscs the amazing ability to secrete a mineral-rich solution that hardens to form its shell, built up layer by layer.  These layers are formed of microscopic aragonite crystals (calcium carbonate) bound in a framework of natural protein called conchiolin.

When it is young and fresh, this mother of pearl layer is a beautiful iridescent coating called nacre.  The oyster secretes both the liquid protein matrix from its anatomy and aragonite manufactured from its watery environment. 

Cultured Pearl Growth

Today, nearly all pearls in jewellery are cultured pearls, meaning the pearl growing process is controlled on a farm, rather than by nature in the wild.  

The cultured pearl category includes two key types: marine pearls, produced in oysters, and freshwater pearls, cultivated in mussels. The pearl farming methods and environments differ greatly, with significant impacts on quality, value, and sustainability.

Freshwater pearl farming process

Freshwater pearls come from the robust, long-lived hybrid-bred triangleshell mussel, where tiny 1mm squares of donor mussel mantle tissue are loosely implanted around the mantle parts, 25 pieces per half shell, up to 50 per mussel.

During the 2 year formation, the mussel forms a pearl around each fragment of donor tissue, which gradually degrades, building multiple pearls of solid nacre.  Freshwater pearls are very durable but with a off-white colour and satiny sheen instead of a mirror bright reflective lustre.  Unless they are grown around a bead, they will be irregular sub-round or potato shaped compared to spherical marine pearls. 

Freshwater pearl farmers are continually developing ways to produce the prized spherical shape along with popular pear-shapes in mussels.  Since around 2014, souffle, Giant fireballs, ripples, Ming, and Edison pearls are all types of freshwater pearls cultivated in China. The "Edison" and "Ming" names are types of larger, bead-nucleated freshwater pearls grown inside the freshwater mussel's gonad sac.

Marine pearl farming process

The Akoya pearl oyster is the most commonly farmed mollusc, originally selected by the father of cultured pearls, Kokichi Mikimoto in Japan's Ago Bay over 100 years ago.  Akoya oysters live for 5 years and produce stunning nacre with an iridescent orient and mirror like lustre quite beyond the quality of freshwater pearls. 

When the oyster reaches maturity at 3 years old, pearls are formed by surgically inserting one sterile spherical shell bead plus a tiny 1mm piece of donor oyster mantle tissue into the gonad sac - a pocket around the reproductive parts - of the oyster’s body. The donor tissue mantle cells act as a catalyst for the beaded oyster to deposit layers of nacre around the bead, resulting in a high quality pearl with a dense, highly reflective lustre and near-perfect roundness. 

In contrast to freshwater pearl farming, only one pearl is produced which puts far less stress on the mollusc.  This process is slow, at least 18-24 months long - and labour-intensive.  Akoya oysters are highly sensitive to their environment, and require pristine seawater conditions and constant skilled care to thrive.

What's the Difference in Value?

Understanding these differences in cultured pearls is crucial for consumers who value not only the deeper beauty, but also the ethical and environmental impact of their pearl jewellery. Mass-produced freshwater pearls come with hidden costs that are increasingly difficult to ignore.

The global jewellery market is totally dominated by cheap freshwater pearls from China. 95% of the world’s freshwater pearls come from China, where they are produced in vast numbers (2010: 1500 metric tonnes) in flooded rice paddy fields and lakes fed with sewage and manure.  These cheap plentiful pearls cost just a few pence each.

Marine pearls account for a fraction of global output.  They depend on clean, mineral-rich seawater, stable salinity, and careful temperature management by sustainable pearl farms. These ethical practices ensure superior quality and environmental stewardship, and as each pearl grows alone over time, their rarity and quality cost is considerably more valuable.

Marine pearls are a premium investment—because their intrinsic beauty, quality, sustainability, and origin set them apart.

Jump ahead to Know the Dirty Secret Behind Cheap Pearls

 

Juraster founder, Jessica Cadzow-Collins, with the farm manager at a pearl farm in Ago Bay, Japan.

4. How Pearls Are Farmed Today – What I Saw First-Hand  

Whilst visiting Japan in early 2025 to research new potential suppliers, I had the opportunity to visit a working marine pearl farm in Ago Bay, Mie Prefecture—the birthplace of Japan’s pearl cultivation over 100 years ago.  It was an unforgettable experience that deepened my appreciation for the skill and care behind every akoya pearl.

Ago Bay, Japan, a ria landscape and national nature reserve with inlets and bays of calm, pristine sea waters.

Owned by a fourth-generation family and run by a dedicated team of skilled local women, this farm epitomises ethical and sustainable pearl farming. The clear, calm inlet provides ideal conditions, with crystal-clear waters and stable temperatures carefully monitored daily. If seawater temperature drops below 14°C, the team begins the delicate process of relocating oyster lantern baskets—each holding about 100 oysters—to warmer southern waters, ensuring oyster health and pearl quality.

Cleaning the oysters' shells with electric drills to prevent bio-fouling

One highlight was seeing three-year-old oysters being meticulously cleaned with electric hand drills to remove barnacles and seaweed—critical maintenance to keep the shells healthy. The oysters are cleaned like this regularly every 6-8 weeks.  The oysters themselves are bred and hatched onsite, not only for pearl production but also to supply top-tier Japanese restaurants, as pearl oysters are a prized seafood delicacy.

The crystal clear water supports rich sea-life and colourful reef fish

April marks the crucial season for “seeding” pearls. Inside the farm’s sterile indoor tanks,  3 year old oysters are gently anaesthetised to prepare them for the skilled surgical insertion of a sterile spherical shell bead. After surgery, oysters spend several hours in recovery tanks before being returned to their life in the sea and the slow process of nacre deposition begins.  The oysters will be assiduously cared for until they reach the end of their natural lives, around 5 years old, and then harvested in the dormant month of December, whilst the nacre is naturally at its brightest. 

Wood and bamboo pontoons support lantern baskets each containing up to 100 oysters

Watching this blend of traditional craftsmanship, scientific precision, and environmental stewardship in action was inspiring. It’s clear why marine pearls from farms like this have unmatched lustre, shape, and provenance—and why they stand apart from mass-produced alternatives.

This visit affirmed my commitment to supporting ethical jewellery that respects both nature and the people who bring these gems to life and act as stewards of the sea.

 

5. Understanding Pearls: Colour, Quality and Shape

 

When comparing pearls, it’s essential to look beyond shape and colour. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) outlines seven pearl value factors that define a pearl’s quality and desirability: size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, nacre quality, and matching. These factors vary widely across pearl types—from classic marine-cultured Akoyas to ultra-rare natural conch and Melo pearls.

Shape, in particular, tells a story: baroque, keshi, and circled pearls each reflect different growing conditions and techniques, as well as ethical and aesthetic values.

What Is Orient? The Hidden Glow That Sets Pearls Apart

In the GIA’s pearl grading system, colour is a key quality factor—but the most prized pearls show more than just colour.

While body colour describes a pearl’s main hue (like white, pink, or silver), some high-quality pearls display orient: a soft rainbow-like shimmer just beneath the surface. This optical effect is caused by light diffracting through layers of nacre and creates a luminous inner glow.

Unlike lustre—which reflects light off the surface—orient appears to come from within, giving a pearl rare depth and beauty. Most visible in Akoya and natural pearls, orient is a subtle but powerful indicator of quality.

Pearl Shapes Explained: From Baroque to Dog-Tooth

Pearls come in more than just round. Their natural formation leads to a fascinating variety of organic shapes—each with its own beauty and story.

Baroque Pearls

Baroque pearls are irregular and asymmetrical, often with bumps, dips or free-form curves. They’re typically formed when nacre builds up unevenly over the nucleus, or when a pearl grows without a bead nucleus at all. Baroque pearls can be subtly misshapen or dramatically sculptural—especially in large South Sea or freshwater varieties.

Mabé pearl dancing elephant, in pink sapphires & diamonds - handmade masterpiece £6,000 - contact us for info

Flat backed mabé pearl

Mabé Pearls

Mabé pearls are domed, half-sphere marine farmed pearls.  They grow against the inside shell of a mollusc rather than within its soft tissue. To produce one, a small dome-shaped nucleus is attached to the shell's interior, prompting the oyster to cover it with layers of lustrous nacre. After harvesting, the pearl is typically cut from the shell, backed with resin, and capped with a mother-of-pearl base to create a finished gem with a smooth, rounded surface — ideal for earrings, rings, or pendants.

Keshi Pearls

Keshi pearls are irregularly shaped pearls that can be all shapes and sizes from twiglet to rice crispie to cornflake shaped.  Products of freshwater cultivation, these solid-nacre pearls originally formed accidentally when the implanted tissue or bead was rejected by the mollusc. Without a nucleus, the oyster deposits layers of nacre resulting in lustrous free-form shaped gems. 

Winged Pearls

Winged pearls are baroque pearls with flattened, extended edges that resemble wings or fans. They often form when two or more pearls grow very close together or when nacre flows unevenly along the inner shell wall. These pearls are typically freshwater and showcase wild, whimsical silhouettes.

Dog-Tooth (Mississippi) Pearls

Dog-tooth pearls, mainly found in wild Mississippi River mussels, are highly irregular and often resemble jagged teeth or crystalline stalactites. Formed naturally without interference, these rare freshwater pearls are difficult to match or replicate—making them collector’s items more than commercial gems.

Circled pearls with ringed grooves on their surfaces

Circled Pearls

Circled pearls, also known as ringed pearls, display visible grooves or concentric bands wrapping around their surface. These rings occur when nacre deposits are interrupted or when the pearl rotates slightly during growth. Most common in Tahitian and South Sea pearls, circled shapes can be striking and are often celebrated for their character and uniqueness.

6. A Guide to Important Pearl Types and Their Characteristics

 

Image CIBJO

Akoya pearl Moonpath transformable bracelet, made to order by Juraster

Akoya Pearls
• Grown in Pinctada fucata oysters (marine, bead-nucleated)
• Cultivated in Japan, Vietnam and China
• High in lustre, roundness, and matching
• Classic white to pinkish tones with silver or rose overtones
• Shell size 10cm max, pearl size: average 5-6mm, rarely over 9mm
• Ideal for traditional fine jewellery, with care will last generations

 

Image CIBJO

Image CIBJO

South Sea Pearls
• From Pinctada maxima (white or gold-lip oyster)
• Grown in Australia, Indonesia, with golden variety in the Philippines
• Exceptional size (9–20+ mm), thick nacre, natural white or golden hues
• Often softly baroque, creamy lustre
• Considered the most luxurious and valuable of all cultured pearls

 

Image CIBJO

Tahitian Pearls
• From Pinctada margaritifera (black-lip oyster)
• Cultivated in French Polynesia
• Naturally dark colours: peacock, charcoal, green, aubergine
• Medium to large size (8–16 mm); bold, dramatic presence
• Frequently baroque or circled, with strong orient

 

Image CIBJO

Sea of Cortez Pearls
• Cultivated in Pinctada mazatlanica oysters
• Farmed artisanally in the Gulf of California, Mexico 
• Iridescent hues: silver, lavender, green, with vibrant orient
• Small-scale production, strict sustainability protocols: 4,000 max pearls produced annually
• Shapes range from near-round to baroque, sizes vary 5-20mm
• Revered for their fairtrade, eco-conscious sourcing and vivid colours

 

Image CIBJO

Triangleshell Mussel Pearls - Freshwater Pearls
• Produced in mussels (tissue-nucleated, solid nacre)
• Commonly farmed in China; grown in lakes, reservoirs and flooded paddy fields
• Wide variety of shapes (oval, button, baroque) and dyed colours
• Lower lustre and irregular shapes more common
• Durable and affordable, but often heavily treated

 

Image CIBJO

Conch Pearls
• Formed naturally in Lobatus Gigas (queen conch) a protected species
• Found in the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of America
• Non-nacreous pearls in vivid pink, peach, or deep orange
• Small (rarely over 4mm); smooth, porcelain-like surface with/without flame-like iridescence
• Extremely rare and valuable - 1 in 100-150,000 queen conches produce a gem quality pearl. 
•  In 2010, Florida University team successfully cultured queen conch pearls in a conservation project
• Highly prized by collectors and often set in one-of-a-kind luxury jewellery

 

Image CIBJO

Melo Pearls
• Found in Melo melo sea snails
• Occur naturally in the Indian & Pacific Oceans off Northern Australia
• Non-nacreous pearls with warm hues: light apricot, orange, or deep cinnamon
• Large and round to oval (10–20 mm)
• Exceptionally rare, with a glossy, flame-like pattern
• Natural pearls, not cultured, making them highly collectible

 

Image CIBJO

White Clam Pearls 
• Tridacna giga clams- a protected species, largest bivalve molluscs, massive shells up to 110 cm diameter
• Occur naturally, mainly along shallow coastal waters in the Indo-Pacific region
• Non-nacreous pearls with white to cream body colour and iridescent flame-like pattern
• Shapes - ovoid to round and drop-shaped, sizes vary 7-25mm
• Exceptionally rare
• Natural pearls, not cultured, making them highly collectible

 

Threeridge freshwater pearl and mussel. Image CIBJO

European river pearl and mussel. Image CIBJO

Natural Pearls 
• Form spontaneously in various wild oysters and mussels, often rare or protected species
• Found historically in the Arabian Gulf, Indian Ocean, and in river beds of N. America and Europe
• Irregular, often baroque shapes
• No farming involved—formed entirely by nature
• Extremely rare and historically priceless (e.g. royal jewels, antique pieces)

Touchstone pearl and Fairmined silver transformable bracelet, Juraster

7. Pearl Care: How to Keep Them Beautiful for Life

Proper care ensures your pearls remain lustrous and long-lasting. As organic gems, they’re more sensitive than most jewellery—and benefit from a few simple, consistent habits.

How to Look After Pearls: The “Last On, First Off” Rule

Always apply your perfume, hairspray, and makeup before putting on pearls. These products contain alcohol and chemicals that can erode the nacre and dull their surface. Follow the golden rule: pearls go on last, and come off first.

How to Clean Pearls Gently After Wearing

Wipe pearls gently with a soft, clean, slightly damp cloth after every wear. This removes skin particles, make-up, natural oils and dirt, preserving their mirror-like lustre. Never soak pearls or clean them with ultrasonic cleaners.

Storing Pearls the Right Way

Pearls should be stored flat in a soft cloth or fabric-lined box. Never keep them in plastic bags or airtight containers—pearls need slight humidity to prevent drying out. For necklaces, laying them flat avoids unnecessary stretching of the silk thread.

How Often to Restring Pearl Necklaces

Regular restringing is essential, especially for frequently worn pieces. The Late Queen Elizabeth II reportedly had her pearls restrung every six weeks because she wore hers daily. For most wearers, every year or is a good rule of thumb, but check if you can slide the pearl a little between the knots either side of it, meaning the silk fibres are degrading. Fine quality pearls should be strung on silk thread because silk makes the tightest knots, and knots limit loss if the strand breaks, also preventing wear from pearls rubbing each other.

With the right pearl care tips, your jewellery will retain its elegance for decades—preserving both beauty and value. 

At Juraster, we can clean and restring your pearls the traditional way on knotted silk.  Just get in touch.

 

8. Know the Dirty Secret of Cheap Pearls: True Beauty Comes Clean 

 

As a designer committed to ethical jewellery, I choose marine pearls for their beauty, traceability, and integrity. At Juraster, we refuse to work with cheap materials, murky mass-production or greenwashed materials disguised as sustainable.

Freshwater cultured pearl farm near Changde, Hunan province. The mussels are placed in nets suspended from buoys made of plastic bottles.  Image: Laurent E Cartier

No to Mass-Produced Foulwater Pearls

At Juraster we call cheap freshwater pearls foulwater pearls.  They are part of a system that prioritises profit over people and the planet.

That's because freshwater pearls are farmed in polluted rivers, reservoirs, flooded paddy fields and lakes in China.  The water pollution occurs because farmers add sewage and raw manure to the water to boost growth of the algae on which the mussels feed. This is so problematic that China has several times banned pearl farming in an effort to reduce pollution and clean up damage to restore freshwater quality.  

A farmer sorts pearl mussels in Zhuji, Zhejiang province. Image Liang Zhen/VCG

Because of the sewage and manure in the water, the mussel meat is not fit for consumption and dead mussel shells are left in vast rotting piles at the farm sites, without being processed. 

China has often been the focus for human rights abuses and poor labour standards.  In 2024, Chinese media outlet SCMN reported that since 2022 "Millions of pearls are being artificially cultivated in the deserts of the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region".

"Freshwater pearl farming is an industry that feeds fast-fashion jewellery with cheap pearls that cause water pollution and raise questions about slave labour."  Jessica Cadzow-Collins

 

Freshwater pearls are so mass-produced across huge regions of China that they just can't be traced to source.  We often spot brands claiming that they source their pearls direct from freshwater farmers and that's an immediate red flag for greenwashing.

No individual farms or regions are traceable because after harvesting, huge sacks of freshwater pearls are rinsed, aggregated by the tonne and sent on for processing elsewhere.  Different specialist centres handle each stage from cleaning, bleaching/dying, grading, drilling, stringing and matching.  

Freshwater pearls are chemically bleached, dyed, or coated to mask flaws and improve appearance —resulting in artificially enhanced beads with low lustre and no intrinsic value. 

Yes to Sustainable Pearls from Clean Waters

Edible seaweed with pearl farm pontoons in middle of bay, Ago Bay Japan

Instead, we source only traceable, responsibly farmed marine Akoya pearls. One of our key suppliers is a small, family-run pearl farm in Vietnam—an area with ideal, mineral-rich calm coastal waters and a long-standing commitment to marine pearl cultivation. Their expert team provides remote regional employment, gently rearing the oysters over years, carefully stewarding water conditions and the marine environment, ensuring the health of the reef and the quality of each pearl.

Jewellery with Real Value

These marine pearls cost more because they are worth more. Grown with care, skill, and environmental respect, they offer lasting beauty and a mirror-like lustre and orient that cannot be faked.

For me and all of us at Juraster, it’s simple: true beauty comes from the heart, and should never cost the earth—ethically or literally.

Only True Beauty Can Create True Beauty

Not all pearls are created equal — and neither is pearl jewellery.

At Juraster, we believe that beauty begins at the source, with sustainable luxury. That’s why we use only marine akoya pearls grown with pride in pristine, marine waters — never mass-produced in polluted foulwater farms. Each of our pearls is clean - formed with time, purity, and purpose.

Because only something born beautifully can make you look and feel truly beautiful.

Explore our akoya pearl collections now.

 

Jump back to a section: 

1. What Do Pearls Mean – and Why?

2. Famous Pearls: Crowns, Queens and C20th Style Icons

3. Where Pearls Come From and How They Are Formed

4. How Pearls Are Farmed Today – What I Saw First-Hand

5. Understanding Pearls: Colour, Quality and Shape

6. A Guide to Pearl Types and Their Characteristics

7. Pearl Care: How to Keep Them Beautiful for Life

8. Know the Dirty Secret of Cheap Pearls: True Beauty Comes Clean

 

Pearl nets suspended from buoys in the azure water of the Sea of Cortez, Mexico. Image perlas.com

 

All images public domain or Juraster unless otherwise credited. 

 

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